Hannah Goldfield
Hannah Goldfield is The New Yorker’s food critic and writes the weekly Tables for Two restaurant column in the Goings On About Town section of the magazine, as well as essays and reported stories. Previously, she was a fact checker at The New Yorker and an editor at T: The New York Times Style Magazine. Her writing has appeared in New York magazine and the Times, among other publications.
Leave the Baking to the Professionals
ALF, in Chelsea Market; Radio, in Greenpoint; and Librae, in the East Village, offer a variety of French viennoiserie, breads, and sandwiches.
Zara Forest Grill Is Worth the Trip to Staten Island
The restaurant’s big, broad menu includes diner fare but also extensive Turkish offerings, such as gozleme, labneh, Iskender kebab, and spectacular desserts.
Superiority Burger Keeps a Tight Focus
Brooks Headley’s East Village restaurant, relocated to a relatively sprawling space, builds on his original vegetarian menu with powerful, creative additions.
Intensely Flavorful Soups, at Noona Noodles
In Koreatown, a mother-daughter team turns out surprising varieties of ramen, jjam bbong packed with spicy seafood, saucy dumplings, and naengmyeon, served ice-cold.
Fantastic Fast Food, West African Style, in Brooklyn
The Crown Heights takeout counters Akara House and Brooklyn Suya and Bed-Stuy’s Ginjan Café offer an astonishing array of food, including bean fritters and suya.
The Butter and Momos of Bhutan, at Zhego
A new restaurant in Woodside offers an excellent introduction to Bhutanese cuisine, including Himalayan dumplings and many dishes featuring butter and cheese.
A Return to Extraordinary Lavishness, at Torrisi
Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone revive their first restaurant, offering a luxurious take on Italian-ish dishes such as Duck Alla Mulberry and Capellini Cantonese.
The Nellie Bly You’ve Never Heard Of
Eve Kahn, the biographer of Zoe Anderson Norris, a.k.a. the “Queen of Bohemia,” tours the late writer’s downtown haunts.
Spectacular Southern-Thai Food, at Chalong
Each dish is a standout at the new restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, including a refreshing oyster salad, “puff sticks,” and cured, deep-fried branzino.
The Bounty of Casa Margaritas
The restaurant, on the eastern edge of Queens, serves mainly Colombian feasts, but also offers Mexican food and many fruity varieties of its namesake cocktail.
“Fat Ham” ’s “Blackerer Version” of Shakespeare
The cast and the writer of the Pulitzer Prize-winning play, which riffs on “Hamlet,” enjoy a pre-Broadway-opening feast at Melba’s in Harlem.
An Experiment in Queering Fine Dining, at HAGS
At the East Village restaurant, opened by a queer couple, the menu, offered as a three- or five-course tasting, leans cerebral.
The Thrilling Japanese Breakfasts of Brooklyn
Some of the spots offering a beautiful teishoku, or set meal, are Okonomi, in Williamsburg, and Dashi Okume and Rule of Thirds, in Greenpoint.
Dynamite Persian Food at Eyval
In Bushwick, Ali Saboor offers spectacular cocktails and striking interpretations of traditional dishes such as kashke bademjan, kebab, and ghormeh sabzi.
A Hot-Pot Marathon at Four Coconuts and the Dolar Shop
Four Coconuts, in Flushing, specializes in Hainanese-style chicken-coconut hot pot; the Dolar Shop, in the East Village, is an outpost of a Shanghai-based chain.
Legacy Pizza: Naples vs. N.Y.C.
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, which opened in Italy in 1870, débuts in the West Village; Lucia Pizza of Avenue X, in Sheepshead Bay, updates the family pizzeria.
Urban Hawker, Direct from Singapore
In midtown, an edited version of Anthony Bourdain’s vision for a hawker-center-inspired food hall offers Hainanese chicken rice, chili crab, and much more.
Your Food’s Alter Ego
The restaurateur Ruthie Rogers attends a party for her new book, which matches dishes (a loaf of focaccia) with a photographic echo (a tote bag flattened by tires).
Traditional British Meats and Beyond, at Lord’s
In Greenwich Village, the proprietors of Dame offer exciting vegetables and seafood that balance out the heaviness of bloody steaks, Scotch eggs, and savory pies.
Artful Indian Dishes, at Eggholic
The latest iteration of a franchise founded by cousins from Ahmedabad has opened in Floral Park, Queens, offering a dizzying array of beautifully executed eggs.
Leave the Baking to the Professionals
ALF, in Chelsea Market; Radio, in Greenpoint; and Librae, in the East Village, offer a variety of French viennoiserie, breads, and sandwiches.
Zara Forest Grill Is Worth the Trip to Staten Island
The restaurant’s big, broad menu includes diner fare but also extensive Turkish offerings, such as gozleme, labneh, Iskender kebab, and spectacular desserts.
Superiority Burger Keeps a Tight Focus
Brooks Headley’s East Village restaurant, relocated to a relatively sprawling space, builds on his original vegetarian menu with powerful, creative additions.
Intensely Flavorful Soups, at Noona Noodles
In Koreatown, a mother-daughter team turns out surprising varieties of ramen, jjam bbong packed with spicy seafood, saucy dumplings, and naengmyeon, served ice-cold.
Fantastic Fast Food, West African Style, in Brooklyn
The Crown Heights takeout counters Akara House and Brooklyn Suya and Bed-Stuy’s Ginjan Café offer an astonishing array of food, including bean fritters and suya.
The Butter and Momos of Bhutan, at Zhego
A new restaurant in Woodside offers an excellent introduction to Bhutanese cuisine, including Himalayan dumplings and many dishes featuring butter and cheese.
A Return to Extraordinary Lavishness, at Torrisi
Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone revive their first restaurant, offering a luxurious take on Italian-ish dishes such as Duck Alla Mulberry and Capellini Cantonese.
The Nellie Bly You’ve Never Heard Of
Eve Kahn, the biographer of Zoe Anderson Norris, a.k.a. the “Queen of Bohemia,” tours the late writer’s downtown haunts.
Spectacular Southern-Thai Food, at Chalong
Each dish is a standout at the new restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, including a refreshing oyster salad, “puff sticks,” and cured, deep-fried branzino.
The Bounty of Casa Margaritas
The restaurant, on the eastern edge of Queens, serves mainly Colombian feasts, but also offers Mexican food and many fruity varieties of its namesake cocktail.
“Fat Ham” ’s “Blackerer Version” of Shakespeare
The cast and the writer of the Pulitzer Prize-winning play, which riffs on “Hamlet,” enjoy a pre-Broadway-opening feast at Melba’s in Harlem.
An Experiment in Queering Fine Dining, at HAGS
At the East Village restaurant, opened by a queer couple, the menu, offered as a three- or five-course tasting, leans cerebral.
The Thrilling Japanese Breakfasts of Brooklyn
Some of the spots offering a beautiful teishoku, or set meal, are Okonomi, in Williamsburg, and Dashi Okume and Rule of Thirds, in Greenpoint.
Dynamite Persian Food at Eyval
In Bushwick, Ali Saboor offers spectacular cocktails and striking interpretations of traditional dishes such as kashke bademjan, kebab, and ghormeh sabzi.
A Hot-Pot Marathon at Four Coconuts and the Dolar Shop
Four Coconuts, in Flushing, specializes in Hainanese-style chicken-coconut hot pot; the Dolar Shop, in the East Village, is an outpost of a Shanghai-based chain.
Legacy Pizza: Naples vs. N.Y.C.
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, which opened in Italy in 1870, débuts in the West Village; Lucia Pizza of Avenue X, in Sheepshead Bay, updates the family pizzeria.
Urban Hawker, Direct from Singapore
In midtown, an edited version of Anthony Bourdain’s vision for a hawker-center-inspired food hall offers Hainanese chicken rice, chili crab, and much more.
Your Food’s Alter Ego
The restaurateur Ruthie Rogers attends a party for her new book, which matches dishes (a loaf of focaccia) with a photographic echo (a tote bag flattened by tires).
Traditional British Meats and Beyond, at Lord’s
In Greenwich Village, the proprietors of Dame offer exciting vegetables and seafood that balance out the heaviness of bloody steaks, Scotch eggs, and savory pies.
Artful Indian Dishes, at Eggholic
The latest iteration of a franchise founded by cousins from Ahmedabad has opened in Floral Park, Queens, offering a dizzying array of beautifully executed eggs.